![]() Smart enough to provide priority charging to a battery bank that's under load by taking fully charged batteries off line. For dual engine applications, ProIsoCharge offers an exclusive 2 alternator input model with up to 4 battery banks. An industry changing design that provides intelligent and zero voltage loss isolation, charging of up to 3 other battery banks off a single alternator (model specific). Sterling also produce alternator control modules that may be of use.ProIsoCharge delivers digitally controlled alternator output distribution while protecting the health of engine start batteries. Whatever solution you decide to use make sure the alternator is not suddenly unloaded, having the engine starter lead acid continuously connected to the alternator should prevent issues. I have used the Victron BMV series battery monitor to limit battery charge at pre programmed capacity levels I dont know if the BMS you are using has the ability to inhibit the charge process below 100% charge. In practice it would be useful to cycle the battery pack well within its capacity so the limits would be not be reached. With only an hours run its unlikely to cause problems with the lithium pack as the BMS could handle over charge problems. An alternative approach is to replace the alternator with a higher output version and/or consider a remote rectifier pack alternator. I strongly suspect this approach would work allowing the alternator to deliver the maximum current yet stay within limits. The main issue with alternators is keeping the temperature within safe limits and the Balmer kit has this feature. I have only had a brief look at the specification but it could be a solution. I think DC-DC chargers work great for an RV where you are driving a long distance but maybe not ideal when you want to maximize your alternator charge in a short period of time. The chargers will be as much $ as the battery bank. The Victron's look good and feature rich they are very expensive and I would need at least two. The Sterlings do not seem to have great charging profiles for LFP. ![]() I was planing on allowing my BMS (Electrodacus SBMS ) to handle to the LFP charge cut off, by cutting power to the ignition sense wire on the DC-DC charger.īTW - as marginal a DC-DC charger as the Renology is, this model actually has a DIY - LFP friendly charge profile option of 14v with no absorb float or temp compensation. Hence the need to maximize charge current during this short window. ![]() This is a sail boat so the engine will only run an hour a day while getting to and from anchorage. My alternator puts out 40amps at idle and 80amp at cruising. I think its important to be able to configure the charge voltages and profile for DIY battery packs, many of the so called pre set lithium settings seem too aggressive. Most alternators will deliver at least 50% of rating at engine idle revs, ( this may vary on a marine engine depending on belt pulley ratio).Īs policy I dont recommend DC to DC units other than Sterling, Victron, Voltronics, all are user programmable and have voltage sensing for charge control. You need to size any DC to DC charger to less than the idle output as under these conditions the alternator will be running flat out and overheating. Running engines at idle speed for long periods can cause mechanical issues and should be avoided. This could be down to design issues or poor installation.įrom your user name I guess its a marine application where its fairly easy to change alternators to higher output versions if required. A number of issues have been reported with this unit in real applications rather than bench tests. If the Renogy unit was operating as its supposed to, then it should have shut down as the engine went to idle and the volts dropped. ![]() Clearly with this particular van and its alternator and engine battery state and age, it would be inadvisable to continue with the setup until modifications were put in place to rectify the issue. The video indicated a 40A charge from the Renogy unit, this implies there was around a 50A or higher load on the engine battery as the engine dropped to idle speed. Most manufactures of mid sized vans, Promaster, Sprinter, Transit, recommend in their up fitters directives to limit the 'camper' loads to around 50 amps. When extra loads are placed on the vehicle system, lights, heating, the 'spare' is reduced somewhat. Limited testing I have carried out indicate around 80 to 100 amps 'spare' at idle with vehicles fitted with 180 amp alternators. Most vehicles produced in recent years have alternators rated at 150 amps and higher. Comments on the video and possible draining of the vehicle battery at idle.
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